How to break into digital safes This tutorial shows you how to break into a digital safe. The technique uses a design floor in the safes often found in hotels or homes. This works on many digital safes however it will not work on all safes. Step 1 Turn the Dial the Wrong Way The first step is to find out which way the dial should be turned. It is usually clockwise. Then turn the dial the incorrect way.
This is to make sure the 'pin' locking the sliding bolt is free to move. Step 2 Hit the Safe I admit this may sound silly, but you should hit the safe firmly with either your hand, a rubber mallet, or other object. This will move the 'pin' that obstructs the sliding bolt for a split second.
Step 3 Turn the Dial the Correct Way A split second later, turn the dial the correct way. If the 'pin' is down, the sliding bolt will move ad the dial will turn all the way around, opening the safe. Step 4 If the Safe Does Not Open, Repeat It may take a few attempts to open because the timing is very particular. If you cannot open the safe by using your hand, try using a mallet.
Remington Gun Safes, also known as Liberty Gun Safes, are available in a wide variety of styles and sizes to protect your guns and other valuables against theft and fire. Remington Gun Safes secure your guns with one of four styles of locks: a standard combination dial lock, a key-locking combination dial lock, an optional S&G Motorized 6120 electronic lock and an optional S&G Z02 Direct Drive electronic lock with rotating keypad. The method used to open your Remington Gun Safe depends entirely on the type of lock selected when you purchased the safe.
. – Probably the most common gun safe myth.
– Gun safes can have many issues, but just the door will tell you a lot about the rest. – Comparison of gun safe to true safes. – One of the riskiest myth about gun safes. – How do burglars actually attack gun safes?. – Is it just smash-and-grab druggies I have to worry about?. – Where do burglars check first for valuables?. – Reasons why you can’t count on your alarm.
– Knowing how burglars usually get in is the first step to stopping them. – Burglars actually hit when most people least expect them to (hint: it’s not at night). – Law enforcement data and factors that make your home more attractive to thieves. This is the second article in the series. Myth: Any gun safe is better than nothing.
That depends what you mean by nothing. Most gun safes are not that difficult to break into, which this article covers in detail.
I can think of plenty of situations where “nothing” would actually be better than a gun safe. Gun Safe Burglary.
Instead of storing your guns in locked cases all around your house, you put them all in your gun safe. Your wife also puts her jewelry in there, and you put your important documents and spare cash inside. Then you come home to your gun safe on the floor, pried open using your own tools. If you didn’t have a gun safe, you wouldn’t have put all of your valuables together in one place. Then the thieves wouldn’t have found them all, but now you’ve lost everything.
You put a gun safe in your living room. An employee from a big box store drops off your new TV and sees the gun safe. Later he’s at his friend’s house smoking weed and tells someone about “this huge gun safe a guy had in his house.” Your house gets broken into by thieves prepared with cordless power tools who go straight for the gun safe. If you hadn’t had a gun safe, the thieves would never have known you had guns. You kept your pistol unloaded, in a locked case.
After getting a electronic fingerprint (biometric) handgun safe, you start keeping your handgun in the safe with a loaded magazine for home defense. If you hadn’t had a gun safe, your child probably wouldn’t have gotten your gun.
Even if he had gotten your gun, it wouldn’t have been loaded. You buy a gun safe and put it on the third floor of your condo but don’t bolt it down. Thieves break in and take the safe. They tip it over and push it down each set of stairs, tearing up your walls and floors as they go. Insurance pays for the guns anyway, but not enough to cover all the repairs. You have to get the drywall, hardwood floors, tile, trim, and paint repaired too. If you didn’t have a gun safe it would have been cheaper and less aggravation.
This is a true story from a forum. The owner said that for a couple of guns it would have been much cheaper if he had just left the gun safe door open. In each of these cases you would have been better off if you didn’t have a gun safe. If it’s ever tested, “nothing” can easily be better than an, flimsy safe. Myth: This gun safe has a thicker door, so it’s stronger.
Things are not what they seem in the gun safe industry. As I mention in, a couple decades ago gun safe manufacturers started changing their designs to make them look more like commercial safes, while at the same time making them weaker. Let’s look at a real safe, one with the type of door that many gun safes imitate. Real Safe Doors, a.k.a.
Graffunder C-Rate Safe As an example I’ll use this 3600 lbs Graffunder C-Rate safe, which was bought new for use as a gun safe. The owner was kind enough to give me permission to post the pictures. It represents way more protection than the average gun owner will need, although it still could still not meet the lowest Underwriters Laboratories (UL) burglary performance rating of UL 687 TL-15. An insurance company might require a safe like this to insure a collection worth up to $50,000. In case you’re wondering, in 2013 this safe cost about $11,000 installed–$7,000 for the safe + $1,400 for shipping to the dealer + $2,400 for local delivery and installation.
Don’t get sticker shock just yet. Surprisingly, used safes of this build grade or higher can be found for less than a new top of the line gun safe, which offers much less protection.
Graffunder C-Rate Safe Door Real safes have serious doors. Plate doors like this one are made of thick sheets of metal with a bolt carriage and other parts welded to the back of it. This door is massive with a 1″ thick plate steel outer plate.
Yes, that is a solid piece of steel between his fingers. This door alone weighs around 1000 lbs, much more than most entire gun safes. The locking bolts look to be 1″ diameter, which ironically is smaller than many flimsy gun safes use to impress their customers. Graffunder C-Rate Safe Door Frame A door made of thick steel plate is great, but if the locking bolts don’t have a sturdy door frame to lock into it’s useless. This door frame is also welded from solid steel plate.
That door frame lip between his fingers in the picture is solid steel, extending all the way to the safe wall where it is continuously welded. The door jamb under his ring finger is also solid plate steel continuously welded to the door frame and side wall. The outer walls, top, and bottom of the safe are 1/2″ plate steel. Then a 3/16″ steel inner shell is welded inside. Finally a 1.5″ thick fire-resistant concrete amalgamate mixture is poured between the inner and outer shell. Graffunder C-Rate Safe Door Gap Even the thickest of steel can be defeated if a thief can get enough leverage, so real safes also have tight door gaps. Higher end burglary ratings have a maximum door gap specification.
This door gap too thin to get a credit card in, so inserting a pry bar or even screwdriver is going to take some magic. Construction of commercial safes varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but this diagram should give you some idea of how they’re put together. The outer shell is A-36 or equivalent plate steel (1/2″ in the above example), continuously welded together all around. A door frame made from plate steel (3/4″ in the above example) is continuously welded into it. Locking Bolt Bar with Anti-Pry Support on a different model A plate steel locking bolt carriage (1/2″ thick in the above example) is continuously welded onto outer door plate, and holds the locking bolt against the inside of the door frame.
Breaking Into Gun Safe
For leverage against bending in a pry attack, locking bolts extend far into the door, or are attached to a gusseted locking bolt bar. You can see from the cross section on the right the concrete amalgamate sandwiched in between two layers of steel, or “composite walls”. The door also has fireproofing but gets most of its strength from solid steel, and therefore the door is referred to as a “plate steel door”. Gun Safe Doors, a.k.a. Composite Doors The average gun safe a decade or two ago had a similar construction as a true B-Rate safe (I explain this rating ), just using half the steel (1/8″ outer shell steel and 1/4″ outer plate door steel). This meant that the gun safes were affordable and offered some security from brute force attacks.
Because most gun safes were made this way, there wasn’t much difference between gun safes from different manufactures. This made the market very competitive. The introduction of cheap knock-off gun safes from overseas made the competition even worse. Faced with more and more competition, gun safe manufacturers were under intense pressure to add “special features” for “market differentiation” — in other words to make their gun safe seem better than a competitor’s. Some gun safe manufacturers realized that if the outer door plate looked thicker, they could sell more than their competitors. But steel is the most expensive material in a gun safe or true safe. So, adding actual steel wasn’t an option they wanted to consider.
Gun Safe Composite Door looks thick, but is mostly drywall. Don’t believe me? Look at the door label.
Instead they got rid of the “thin-looking” 1/4″ (0.2500″) outer door and replaced it with thinner sheet metal wrapped around a sheet or two of gypsum drywall (Sheetrock). This made a door which looked like it had an outer plate of solid 1/2″ to 1″ steel like the real safe above. Unfortunately though the composite door was just 12 gauge (0.1046″) thick steel–2.4X thinner than the “thin-looking” door it replaced! Note that the 12 gauge (0.1046″) steel outer shell and door of most gun safes is thinner than the 3/16″ (0.1875″) inner fire shell of the C-Rate safe above. Close-up of label showing “composite door” construction. Thinning the metal had the added benefit of making the gun safes lighter, which cut shipping cost as more and more were being made overseas.
To make this weaker door sound like a benefit, they borrowed terminology from the concrete composite bodies of real safes, calling these doors “composite doors”. Unfortunately the term is comparing apples and oranges. For one, true safes don’t use composite construction on their outer door shell, which is instead solid steel. Secondly, the gypsum drywall fire board in a gun safe “composite door” offers absolutely no burglary protection, as anyone who’s ever punched a hole in drywall can tell you. The concrete amalgamate mixture in a real safe’s composite body does offer some burglary protection from brute force attacks and even torches. In an effort to make gun safes even cheaper, gun safe manufacturers started making as much of them as possible out of bent and stamped sheet metal to minimize welding. They bent the outer door sheet around in steps and continued it inside the door, punching it and using it as the locking bolt carriage.
Gun Safe Door Gap with Dime. Some other changes were happening in the gun safe industry as well — instead of real safe stores, more and more gun safes were being sold at “big box” stores. Many of these “big box” stores re-labeled their products to make it harder to compare prices with their competitors.
For example, Dick’s Sporting Goods is the exclusive distributor of Field and Stream gun safes, but these gun safes are really just re-labeled Stack-On gun safes. At a big box store, the employees generally knew very little about what they’re selling, and knew barely more about gun safes than the customers. Without a knowledgeable salesman there to tell a customer “this one looks stronger, but this safe here is really better”, customers were on their own to compare two gun safes and decide which one was better. Gun safe manufactures realized that “multiple massive locking bolts” sold more safes, especially to uninformed customers. The “bolt work” or locking bolt bar assemblies were made out of the same sheet metal as the gun safes to cut costs.
Stubby locking bolts were bolted to the sheet metal with a 1/4″ bolt, made short to save money. Bigger and bigger cosmetic locking bolts could be now bolted on to justify “premium” price tags, without adding much actual cost (or security). Under the surface of the door, the “premium” models were built the same way as the cheap models for greater profit. Here’s another page with more pictures on the ““. From a security perspective, there are several fundamental problems with the construction of most gun safes. Hacked open with an Axe 6.
The “composite” construction of gun safe doors and walls is nothing like a true safe. Drywall (Sheetrock) fireproofing adds absolutely zero security, in fact it makes the outer door lip weaker. Some fireproofing concrete amalgamates have low strength compared to normal concrete, but even these mixtures are much stronger than the gypsum which drywall is made of.
They also adhere to the steel walls and fill up any voids. In a true composite safe, the strength of the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
The jazz piano book levine pdf. “Composite doors and walls” made with drywall have none of these benefits. Is it really that easy to get into a gun safe with a pry bar? Here is what looks like an old Liberty Centurion model getting broken into in less than two minutes by two guys who aren’t in much hurry.
That is an older video, but many other gun safes have similar pry attack resistance. Seemingly in response to this video, Liberty has since created their own similar and somewhat misleading. Instead of the same Chinese Centurion model it shows the stronger American-made version of the Centurion getting attacked. This model had some small stamped into to its bolt carriage. Interestingly the American Centurion does not have actual anti-pry tabs shown in the video. Instead, the video shows the stronger tabs of their high end models.
In the Liberty version of the video, you can see the door and frame flexing from the start. However, the guys in the video spend all of their time on the same corner of the door instead of working around to find the weakest point. This prolongs their attack. But even Liberty’s video doesn’t pretend to resist prying for more than 10 minutes.
After the “pry test” the video goes into marketing gimmicks which are covered in these articles. Gun safe manufacturers love to brag about the total thickness of their doors and the size and number of their locking bolts, but these don’t have much to do with the security of the door. The Liberty Centurion above has four 1″ locking bolts. In comparison here is a Sturdy safe which also has four locking bolts. Sturdy’s locking bolts are actually smaller at 7/8″ (0.875″). And for this video two of them were actually removed.
Simple and Sturdy Door Locking Bolt and “C” Channel Bolt Carriage This safe door stands up to a similar pry attack with only two 7/8″ (0.875″) locking bolts. The difference is that these locking bolts are not stubby cosmetic items. They extend over 5″ into the door where they are supported by a 3/16″ (0.1875″) thick steel 4.75″ wide ‘C’ channel. You can see all the strength of the safe comes from the construction and the steel in the door, door frame, locking bolt mechanism, and walls. Gun Safe Bolt Work. Elaborate Locking Bolts Designed to Impress Buyers Elaborate bolt work systems are mainly designed to impress a buyer enough get his credit card out.
Doors with dozens of locking bolts are impressive to look at, but mean nothing if connected to a locking bolt bar carriage, door jamb, and door all thin enough they can be easily bent during a pry attack. This also applies to top, bottom, and corner locking bolts. These “features” are not found on most true safes.
Bolt work with lots of gears and moving parts actually adds more points of failure and mechanical maintenance with a negligible increase in security. Some complicated bolt work systems even give a burglar more options for attacking the gun safe. This Top Locking Bolt didn’t stop Burglars High security safes often have only 3 moving locking bolts.
These will be located on just one side of the door! The hinge side will have fixed bolts or a welded tongue or wedge. Any additional bolts beyond that just reduce the mechanical reliability. And any increase in pry attack protection will be negligible. A well-built 3 locking bolt system can be stronger than 30 bolts.
In summary, gun safes are constructed much differently than real safes. Gun safe companies love to advertise things like “bank quality protection.” They make their safes look like a commercial safe, rather than as build them like one. Don’t be fooled. Later in this series, has an easy to follow list of things to look for so that you know what you’re getting for your money.
Click below to continue on the next page. Good info there my neighbor has his small business safe broken into they used something to widen the box so the door would come off. They only targeted the safe as it held 25k in gold. He suspects it was exterminator company as they were the only ones who went into the room in the year. I have been very concerned I have is 1990’s amsec not very good only 1/4 ” door and 3/16 box. I need to upgrade, but I have installed a camera system and a cellular connected security system which is battery backed so nothing other then a cell jammed could stop it. I still want to upgrade my safe.
I think the only thing that will let me sleep at night is a TL-30 safe. We had those in a pawn shop my family owned robbers attempted to pull one over with a tow strap didn’t work just spun their tires as it weighed in over 3800 lbs. I have a Liberty safe, which the delivered to my door for $2200 total. It has 1/4 plate steel construction, and a very thick plate door.
I opted for their fireproofing, which adds 3″ of fire proofing fiberglass, as well as a q4ga inner steel shell. Ironically, the Field and Stream “safe” at Dicks (on sale for 799 plus 200 delivery), was made entirely of 14ga steelLOL! In other words, just the inner liner of a Sturdy Safe is equivalent to a Field & Stream from Dick’s. We won’t even get into pry resistance, etc., as there is NO contest! My buddy spent 2900 on a Liberty “top of the line” safe, and after seeing my Sturdy, he is ordering their largest safe!!!!
What liberty safe is 1/4 plate steel would have to be 3 gauge to be 1/4″? Liberty doesn’t make anything thicker then 4 gauge that is there presidential starts at $4000+. You said you got one delivered for $2200. I would say that is 14 gauge those are very easy to use a rechargeable sawzall on like the jewelry story in this blog they had a liberty safe see how they sawzalled into it. I would get rid of that cheap safe and get a sturdy safe.
You probably think it’s 1/4 thick because you see the folded steel door looks thick it really just just folded 14 gauge steel. Those are easy targets for pry attacks. Love all of this information.
Even the name brand trusted companies websites are using various terminology that sounds fancy but really doesn’t disclose the doors construction or thickness of steel. While I’m sure some of this is security reasons it doesn’t help the consumer to know if they can trust even the cheaper versions of the real quality name brand companies anymore. This information has clarified alot of what I’ve read online to look for with pictures so I can put hands on safes in showrooms and determine if I’ll be trusting that I’m paying for quality security and not false security.
To the commentor Kelly who wants a TL-30 safe. This is a fire rating, not a security rating. I googled TL-30 safe and seen a guy on the AR15 forum who bought a used one from a jewelry store that went out of business. It had the TL-30 fire rating and he was crowing how good a deal it was at only 250.00. He had taken photos of the door inside and it had sliding tabs instead of locking bolts. I noted the tabs only went through 1 thin outer later of steel and then were secured inside via small looking bolts through them. In other words there was scant little protection against a pry-bar attack.
Those tabs would have folded and allowed the door to be pried open pretty easily if the door was loose fitting enough to allow pry-bars in. So the point is a TL-30 safe has a 2 hr fire rating, the TL-30 rating does not mean it is more secure, though it would most certainly be better then a cheap gun safe. After reading this article I am going to have a utility room size cement pad poured at my next house that will support a lot of weight and then have a shell of a room built. I’ll then line the walls with 12 inches of re-bar reinforced concrete and build my own door to secure it.
I’m a welder-fabricator-machinist so this will end up being bank vault level door and it will be a permanent feature of the house. I plan on it being large enough to use as a panic room as well as a vault and gun safe. It will be hidden behind a false wall in a closet that will not be easy to spot unless you know it is there and then I’ll put a small bait gun safe in a closet but concealed so any labor or delivery guys in my house will not know it is there but burglars will quickly find it.
Link below to the AR15 post with the great deal on a TL-30 safe. Take a look at the photos of the door and notice how the large locking tabs and poorly supported inside the door.
Would I buy this safe for a cheap price, sure but I would then dismantle the door and weld in supports for the tabs so they would not be easily bent. This safe is better then a cheap-o gun safe but still not great just because it is TL-30 rated. If this link does not work use the one my sig is linked to, I used the same link as the one above to the AR15 forum article. Very good information. I debated back and forth about getting a gun safe for my firearms but in the end I decided against it. If a burglar comes into your house and sees a gun safe he will realize you have firearms and direct his attention to the safe and possibly get into it and steal everything anyways. I personally decided it would be better to just hide all the guns and to anyone entering my house you would have no clue that I am a gun owner.
I know it is taking a risk but even my closest friends who know I OWN guns don’t know where I keep them, so a total stranger would have no idea that there are any guns in the house and will move onto other less valuable things like tv/computer/etc. Nobody ever does a real world test. How about taking a Cannon or Winchester safe say a 64 gun safe that you can get at TS and mount it to the floor and against a corner wall and see how easy it would be to pry on with a wall that in the way of a large pry bar. I think the crook would just use a grinder with a cut off wheel. You could just put a sticker that says 100 pounds of black powder inside. Or really store gun powder on the one side that is exposed. Won’t be a good day for him that’s for sure!
Ron, They could but it’s about cost of steel now older gun safes going back in the 90’s had thicker steel but the locking system wasn’t good no re-lockers in most case so drill attacks on those safes today with cheap flexable inspection camera it’s easy to see how to open it after a few drill spots using a unibit step drill bit. Those drill bits cut very fast even 4 gauge steel.
Now days drill protections and re-lockers are a must. People don’t want to spend $4000-5000 on a safe they want to spend around $2500 or less. My best advice for small collections is use the NRA insurance and get a sturdy safe brand they are the best for the money. I’ve been going crazy studying these things to find the right one. Weight is a major issue as I have a 1926 wood floor 2 story house. Of course I want the thing in my bedroom on the second floor.
At our local gun shows, we have 3 different companies that exhibit. My point, is i practically climbed into a liberty, with my flashlight, and gave it a very thorough inspection. Not only are the bolts pressing against the very thin steel of their safe body in a pry attack, but I found parts without fireboarding. The boarding in the bend of the body to make the area for the door, the fireboard fell off into my hand, it was stapled into place by staple gun, and it barely was enough to keep it in place. They look so solid, but they definetly cut corners. And the video on their website prying the revolution/centarioun model, you can see where it’s right about to pop open, if they only had 5-10 more seconds, ohp!
They failed, they couldnt get in, oh what a wonderful safe, they failed to break in! Thank you so much for this video. Great education for someone like me who is looking to buy a safe and confused by all the marketing gimmicks! It seems like the only real protections these safes can offer is protection from Fire to some degree. I’ll focus on getting a decent safe with Fire protection in my focus now. If the thieves want to break in your house (when you’re not home) really nothing will stop them. Unfortunately you can’t booby trap inside your home either because then the thieves can sue you if they get hurt!!
(Ok, I won’t go there another topic that burns my behind!). Thanks again. Hello Private, Thanks for your comment. I try to keep the data on the site as accurate as possible, and so appreciate when anyone draws my attention to a potential error. Those figures come from the.
From Table 2 “Average annual burglaries or other household property crimes involving the theft of at least one firearm, by theft characteristic, 2005–2010”, the Number of stolen firearms listed is 172,040. Lower down on that page (page 3) on the left is the bullet “Property crimes involving only stolen firearms resulted in an average annual loss of $27 million.” All the sources cited can be found in the section, along with a caveat about statistics. Cheers, Jaime.
1300 Enterprise Dr. Suite A Port Charlotte, Florida (866) 841-3790 Email: Need Instructions? Download them here.
Electronic Keypad vs Dial Combination Why an electronic keypad? Convience is the main reason for selecting a LaGard electronic keypad. If you are opening the safe several times a day, this is well worth the money. I have found that if someone doesnt like the process of dialing the combination then they will quit putting things inside the safe. Thus defeating the purpose of having a safe. Many people ask Which is a better lock, a dial or an electronic keypad? Good Question.
I have found through experience in safe cracking that both are VERY difficult. Electronic keypads have a 4 consecutive invalid code lockdown. This makes the keypad inoperable for 5 minutes. After the end of 5 minutes you get two more tries or it goes back into lockdown for another 5 minutes. Thus virtually eliminating random entry of the code. What if the battery goes dead? There is a battery door compartment on the outside of the keypad. Just open the door and change the 9volt battery.
The computer chip maintains the combo at all times and will not default because of no battery. Here is something else that many dont consider, changing the code on the keypad. Its easy and can be done when ever the current code has been compromised.
Your safe will come with instructions on how to do this but I have included some general notes below. Electronic Keypad vs Dial Combination Electronic Keypad PROS. Easy to change the combo. Fast to enter the combo. You pick the numbers so the combo should be easier to remember. If an incorrect combo is entered 5 times it goes into lockdown mode and another attempt cannot be made for 5 minutes. Great strength and security.
How To Open A Remington Gun Safe
CONS. You have to change the batteries average is around once a year. (it will remember the combo even if batteries go dead. Initial cost is more than a dial.
If it goes into lockdown mode because you forgot your combo, you have to wait 5 minutes until you can try again. Electronic locks have only been around for 20 years or so. Dial Combination Lock PROS. Can keep the same combo and it will not show wear.
Dials last a long time with the proper care. Initial cost of a dial is less than an electronic keypad. Been around for over 150 years. CONS.
You need to call a locksmith to change the combo. It takes time to unlock and open. Difficult for people with shaky hands or arthritis to open. No lockdown mode. Not convient.
Its like an old rotary phone dial verses push button phone. If you have any questions about which lock to choose please call us. For those of you that have forgotten or lost you code change instructions, please find below the instructions for changing a LaGard LGBasic. Please look at the front of your lock and find an LG stamped just below the keypad. If you do not find the LG this may not work. Changing The Code On Your Electronic Lock on Your Fireproof or Burglary Safe. ALWAYS PERFORM THIS OPERATION WITH THE DOOR OPEN!.
Enter zero six times. Enter your existing six (6) digit code one time. Enter your NEW six (6) digit code two times. If a mistake is made wait thirty (30) seconds and repeat steps 1-3. Test lock operation several times before closing the door.Valid Code Entry- you will hear a double signal after valid six (6) digit code is entered.Invalid Code Entry- Triple signal and old code is still valid. Opening The Lock.
Enter valid six (6) digit code (Factory is set to 1-2-3-4-5-6). The lock will signal a valid code entry with a double beep. Within four (4) seconds, turn handle to the open position.
(clockwise). Pull the door open. Caesar 4 rapidshare links. Wrong Try Penalty. Entry of four (4) consecutive invalid codes starts a 5 minute delay period. (this is for anti-theft). LED flashed red at five second intervals. At the end of the delay period, tow more consecutive invalid codes will restart an additional five minute period.
Battery Low Warning. Repeated beeping during an opening indicates that the battery is low and needs immediate replacement. Uses one (1) 9-volt Alkaline battery. Any high quality alkaline battery will do fine. Change your battery at least once a year. Not only on your safe but also on all smoke detectors you may have around your home or office.
(My wife says Halloween is the National Change Batteries Day and if its not
it darn well should be!) If your battery is depleted and will not allow lock to open, simply follow instructions below. Note: A sign that the battery is low is when you put in the code and it accepts it but doesnt pull back the bolt. You have a weak battery.
Changing Your Battery. Remove black plastic battery compartment cover (located at the bottom of the keypad) by gently pulling downward on its handle.
Where To Buy A Remington Gun Safe
Note that sometimes there is a screw securing the battery door which must be removed first. Allow the battery and its attached leads to drop down and out of the battery compartment.
If it does not drop, gently pull on the battery until it does. The connector is easily removed by unsnapping it form the tow terminals on the top of the battery.
NEVER PULL ON BATTERY LEADS. Connect a new 9-volt alkaline battery to the battery clip. Push the battery and the leads completely up into the battery compartment.
Install the battery cover by placing one side of the cover in position and then pressing the other side into position with your finger. If you still have problems regarding your drop safe, depository safe, fireproof safe, gun safe, floor safe, wall safe, security safe, or any other safe that you have purchased from us please call us at 877-629-6214 or contact your local locksmith.
For a lost or forgotten code. (.pdf format) Tell me about the combination dial. James Sargent designed and developed the first key changeable dial locks to be used in the United States in 1957. Later in 1865 a partnership was born between James Sargent and Halbert Greenleaf forming the Sargent and Greenleaf company. Manufacture these locks in Rochester, NY.
Manufacturing remained here until 1975. Don't worry, they are still made in the 'Good Ole USA' in Nicholasville, Kentucky.
They pride themselves in the most quality driven security products in the lock building industry. Specializing in UL listed Group II locks that locksmiths world wide depend on. These locks are made so well that I still have antique safes with the dial locks from the 1890's. Still working. Still secure. Still dependable.
When it comes to changing a dial combo is that easy to do? That is not a recommended procedure for anyone to attempt. Always call your local locksmith to change the combo on your dial. 'What about dials, in the old movies a thief uses a stethoscope to listen to the tumblers falling into place as he attempts to break into the safe' That is mainly in the movies!
What the person is doing is called 'lock manipulation'. As long as you purchase a safe with a 'Group II dial' that is UL listed. You shouldn't have a problem. The inexpensive dials like on the ones for sale in the big box retailers can be manipulated. However, I have yet to meet anyone who ever has been able to open one through manipulation. It is not a common practice, even among locksmiths.
I often get a call from a business owner that has been robbed. He states 'My safe was broken by a theft attempt, he didn't get it open but he damaged it trying to break in'. When this happens, the thief rarely gets it open. Often the first attempt to break in is to smack off the dial.
Sometimes they are successful in getting the dial to break BUT they are unaware that once it breaks it triggers a relocker. This relocker fires another bolt to lock all the bolts in place.
Once this is done, the safe is locked up. It will require the services of a professional locksmith to unlock and open. But everything is safe and can be repaired with a new dial.
Vault and Safe 219 Leming Ave Corpus Christi, TX 78404 Fax: 1 (866) 543-4889 Phone: 1 (877) 629-6214 Toll Free (866) 841-3790. Copyright Vault and Safe. All Rights Reserved. Site by TheWebDept.biz.
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